Taif roses have 30 petals and grow around the city of Taif in western Saudi Arabia, not far from Mecca. (Although some gifted natural perfumers manage recreate the smell of honeysuckle through clever alchemy of other naturals) Depending on the other notes used, it can enhance a touch of aniseed, blend romantically with other white florals orange blossom and jasmine or add a fresh green note, GoutalParis Eau de Camille Add a little lemon verbena to a fragrance, and it delivers a brisk, pure, floral-citrus scent, like bruising the fragrant leaves of this shrubby plant between your fingers. Guerlain Aprs lOnde Its a citrus note, often found as part of a zesty blend in colognes. "It provides an indescribable, underlying animalic note that allures to the primal senses.". Amazingly, from those fragile-looking leaves comes a sweet, spicy, smoky, cedar-y scent so powerful it has to be handled with care: patchouli is the most powerful of any plant-derived essence. In fact, there are two variietes of cardamom: earthy, smoky black cardamom and the fresher, almost minty, eucalyptus-y green cardamom. Taylor Swift Wonderstruck Enchanted In ancient Arabic perfumery, basil was known as the king of the fragrant plants. The early fragrant use of the flowers was in pomanders. According to the Australian Orchid Society, "Old Totonac lore has it that Xanat, the young daughter of the Mexican fertility goddess, loved a Totonac youth. And where would Guerlains Mitsouko be without the peach-skin warmth of C14? (Its completely unrelated to lime trees, by the way: the name lime evolved from the 16th Century Middle English word lind. (Technically, boronia is a member of the citrus family.) Orange blossom can be used almost symbolically in fragrance, as well as for its bewitching scent: over time, its come to represent purity, moral virtue and innocence, but fruitfulness and fertility, too. Penhaligons Halfeti Boadicea the Victorious Regal We all know bamboo. Gucci Guilty Elemi is a pale yellow fragrant resin, tapped from a tree Manila Elemi, or Canarium luzonicum - which grows in the Philippines. The poisonous, hallucinogenic black berries are what were most familiar with (and warned about, as kids). Not the ones we now buy in supermarkets, which have become such a popular design statement. These are the types of challenges which perfumers face: the back-stories you cant imagine, when you un-stopper a bottle! Burberry Weekend for Women The extract comes from the peel of the fruit, and is grapefruit-y and green at the same time. ', Goutal Paris Eau de Lavande You cant shake a real cocktail into a scent, of course so the drink has been conjured up synthetically as a fantasy fragrance ingredient to give a sense of sparkling, crisp peachiness. It has more character than sweet orange; it seems naughtier to me. Well, recently, the third most abundant metal on earth has made an appearance mostly in mens perfumery, so far to add a cooling, metal edge, for instance in the Blood Concept fragrances, but also Creeds Acier Aluminium, which was inspired (so they put it) by the chain mail worn by medieval knights. Naughty, naughty, naughty. ), In perfumery, the not-quite-ripe peppercorns of the Piper nigrum vine are dried, crushed and steam-distilled to create an intensely-fragrant oil which is surprisingly complex: as well as delivering a burst of heat, its surprisingly fresh and woody, too, blending beautifully with citrus fruits like lemon, as well as aromatics including lavender, ginger, clove, coriander and geranium. Benzoin is a balsamic resin obtained from the bark of a Styrax tree. Sometimes, then, its paired with other tea-like ingredients but more to paint an olfactory picture, in marketing terms, than for any other reason. A little dry, but with hints of pine in there, too. neroli, when its extracted in a particular way) is one of the most precious scent ingredients of all. Nina Ricci LAir du Temps Robert Piguet Fracas Kai Kai. Prada Les Infusions de Prada Iris Cdre Its derived from a tree in Central and South America (Copaifera officinalis) and acts as a base note and fixative. Caron Tubereuse Czech & Speake Frankincense & Myrrh Calvin Klein Eternity Camellia Japonica (our garden shrub, which originated in yes Japan) is also related to the tea plant, Camellia Sinensis. Jo Malone London Pomegranate Noir The natural oil is also used in the liqueur Chartreuse (with its signature bright yellow-green colour, evoking the flowers of the plant itself), while the stem can be candied. Christian Dior Bois d'Argent Histoire de Parfums Vert Pivoine Today, iris plants happily grow everywhere from Europe to the Middle East, Asia and north Africa. Woods of Windsor Lily of the Valley But chocolates not a piece of cake for perfumers to work with: in the wrong hands it tips right over into ickiness, but in the right hands it further ups the sensuality of florals and of patchouli. Santalum album isnt actually a tree but a parasitic plant which grows by suckering itself to the roots of other trees, and slowly growing as high as 10 metres. Xerjoff Shooting Stars Collection: Esquel. The agarwood is a result of a reaction to a fungal attack, which turns this usually pale and light wood into a dark, resinous wood with a distinct fragrance a process that takes hundreds of years. Sisley Eau du Soir, In common with balsam of Peru and balsam of tolu, this is an oil tapped from a tree (Styrax benzoin), after deliberately damaging the bark. "These vanilla 'beans' are aged and then extracted to make an infusion or an absolute which is used in flavors and fragrances to impart its unique creamy sweetness. (And seems to work equally well on members of the opposite sex.) But it was their appearance in Chanel No. Miller Harris Couer de Fleur Jo Malone London Sweet Lime & Cedar An essential oil can be extracted from that rind, though (as well as the white flowers) producing a fragrance thats more complex than a normal orange: sweet/tart, with hints of lemon and pine. With such huge amounts of timber felled to extract teensy qualities of oil, its no wonder that Brazilian rosewood trees which are grown in the rainforests of Brazil, Mexico and Peru are now protected, under CITES (the convention which safeguards endangered flora and fauna). Armani Acqua di Gio ", "Musk is an aromatic base note derived from a combination of natural and synthetic sources. Down the centuries, then, incense has been burned as a part of religious rites, as a fumigant to cleanse the air and kill germs or simply for the pure joy of its perfume. Salts a flavour. Boucheron Boucheron (Labdanum is today extracted from the leaves using solvents, although the branches can also be boiled.). Caudalie Zeste de Vigne Perfumers have to use ionones with a light touch, though: they can actually desensitise the nose. Guerlain Myrrhe & Dlires Guerlain Champs Elyses The dahlia fragrances on the market, weve a hunch, are inspired by the show-stopping appearance of this flower, rather than its scent: its not about to take over from jasmine and rose in the perfumers arsenal, anytime soon. Nina Ricci LAir I love the woody, very diffusive aspect of this IFF molecule," says Benaim. Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso (Its actually been proven to quell anxiety and promote sleep.) The sweetness of the violets deep blue eyes, Kissed by the breath of heaven, Seems colord by its skies, wrote Byron. Notes of fig leaf and fig fruit can both be used. Jovoy Paris Bois It pairs beautifully with rich flowery notes like jasmine, tuberose and rose. But in the hands of a gifted nose? Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac. She loved it. ChloEau de Parfum Intense WebIngredients. The bitter orange tree is actually incredibly versatile, in perfumery: most neroli/orange blossom and petitgrain extracts come from this single tree, giving their soft/sweet/fresh qualities to countless delicious perfumes. It isnt just the fruit thats used: apple blossom gives a soft, floral air to fragrances and lately, theres been a trend to using something called an apple tree note: in fact, a synthetic, fantasy ingredient which delivers a fruity-woodiness. Jo Malone London Pomegranate Noir. (An idea wed rather like to see revived) Iris has long been a symbol of majesty and power, too. Le Labo Labdanum 18 The actual aroma compound is known as ethyl maltol: its softness almost melts into floral notes, delivering a flirty, playful femininity, as well as depth and intrigue. But pine can also be wonderful crisp, spicy, outdoorsy and invigorating and its been closely linked to perfume creation since the time of the early Arab perfumers, who liked it in combination with frankincense, in particular. Tangerine is one of the genuine natural fragrances that has the same effect. (Its even the name of a particular scent, from the Capri-based perfume house Carthusia). Chanel Allure 'A very powerful molecule, in both masculine and feminine fragrances,' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet. I love the fruity effect of blackcurrant bud, which boosts juiciness in the top note of a fragrance. Mix bitter herbs, ripe apples and green leaves. Xerjoff Shooting Stars Collection Oroville, Yummy, yummy rum: wonderful in cocktails to drink, glorious in perfumes an appetising gourmand ingredient that pairs well with woods, adding complexity, sweetness and intrigue. Walk past a hedgerow in full blossom and youll breathe the spicy, almond-like scent of the flowers which has been prized for centuries by perfumers. Robert Piguet Fracas The price of the natural ingredient probably doesnt help: it takes 500 kilos of flowers to produce one kilo of concrete, and about one-tenth that quantity of absolute. Estee Lauder Beautiful Prada Infusion de Mimosa "There's no household in Mexico where tuberose sprigs aren't set up in vases, perfuming the whole atmosphere like there's no tomorrow. Maison Martin Margiela Untitled And they can be used subtly like backing singers or be pushed out into the spotlight, in a scent thats pure violet femininity. Perfume Bottles Auction 2023: The worlds most fabulous flaons could be yours! The availability of this synthetic ingredient has probably helped to shape the trend for aquatic fragrances, as well as for fruity-florals. Like quite a few perfume ingredients, this is one thats invaluable in cooking, too: a sprig in a casserole, or a sauce, adds a wonderful aroma. EsteLauder Pleasures. (Although eugenol is also produced synthetically, nowadays.) By Kilian Beyond Love Yes, if we eat it: nectarines are of course smooth-skinned, and have a whiter flesh. Mango blossom, too, is sometimes used in perfumery: as sweetly floral as youd imagine these soft white flowers to be, with a breath of lily of the valley about them. Many a gardeners favourite flower, the sweet pea: obligingly abundant, so long as you keep picking its long stems day after day. Personally, we prefer to wear our guaiac wood, for an air of mystery. It brings out the flavors of ginger, onions, adds warmth to the cocktail of exotic flavors from clove, pepper, cumin, fenugreek. KenzoKenzo Amour Florale Kylie Minogue Music Box During the Black Death in Europe, it was believed that carrying a ball of ambergris could prevent plague. Supremely versatile, it blends exquisitely with cloves, lavender, geranium, jasmine, galbanum, frankincense, black pepper, jasmine and patchouli; it works as a fixative, tetheringother ingredients and keeping them true, in a composition. We love the idea that (as fragrance writer Mandy Aftel puts it), black pepper isnt just thought to stimulate the mind, but to warm the indifferent heart, Perfumer Andy Tauer tells us he's still experimenting with it, as an ingredient. But do you enjoy wearing chocolate? Intoxicating, hallucinogenic, life-threatening plants yes, truly datura (a.k.a. Chopard Casmir Its a key ingredient in Bay Rum aftershave/scent, and often used in mens perfumery but also to spice up a chypre fragrance, or in a mysterious ambre, Several names for this: Curry Plant, Herb of St. John, Immortelle (which you might know from the LOccitane skincare range) - and botanically, Helichrysum augustifolium. Nina Ricci LAir Jo MaloneLondon Earl Grey & Cucumber Wild-harvested supplies are obviously extremely erratic and many countries have outlawed the trade of ambergris, as part of a more general ban on the exploitation and hunting of sperm whales, so ambergris tends to be created synthetically. Sugary and sweet, sometimes greener and drier, the note can conjure up the smell of the popular American soft drink Kool-Aid: the same ingredients (methyl anthranilate and dimethyl anthranilate) go into both. ", A grass with heavy, fibrous roots, which are used to distill an oil that smells of the moist earth with woody, earthy, leather, and smoky undertones. When I take the lid off and sniff, I cant help letting out a long appreciative mmmmmmmmm. A flower employed widely in perfumery. Boucheron Japur Bracelet Originating from Mexico, Central America and Columbia, and then hybridised by clever Dutch plant breeders, dozens of species of tuberous dahlia now brighten our summer gardens. Its the image of driftwood that this note really evokes visions of saltiness, seaside, water and lightness. Swiss Army Swiss Army for Her. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Petit Matin IV Violette Developers like Ray Matts always used large amounts of it in his fragrances as it gave a huge trail," says perfumer Olivier Gillotin. Boadicea the Victorious Invigorating The key aroma compound in sweet orange oil, meanwhile, is something called d-limonene and its also a sensitiser for some people, meaning it has to be listed (albeit in the teensiest writing) on labels. , I cant help letting out a long appreciative mmmmmmmmm house Carthusia.! And is grapefruit-y and green leaves boosts juiciness in the top note of a zesty in. Eugenol is also produced synthetically, nowadays. ) note really evokes visions of,. Without the peach-skin warmth of C14 challenges which perfumers face: the back-stories you cant imagine when! Pine in there, too, ripe apples and green at the same effect and! 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Now buy in supermarkets, which boosts juiciness in the top note of a way...
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